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# Iran Practical Guide: Visa, Money, Transport & Etiquette
- URL: https://amnesia.ir/iran-practical-guide-visa-money-transport/
- Published: 2026-10-01T17:01:23.000Z
- Updated: 2026-10-01T17:21:28.000Z
- Author: Iran Explorer
- Tags: Practical Guide

First time in Iran? Here's everything we wish we knew before our first trip.

![Fin Garden, Kashan — classic stop between Tehran and Isfahan](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:FilePath/Fin%20Garden%2C%20Kashan%2C%20Iran.jpg?width=1600)

Fin Garden, Kashan — classic stop between Tehran and Isfahan *(Wikimedia Commons / Unsplash, free license)*

## Visa

Apply for e-visa 1 month ahead (evisa.mfa.ir). Most EU, Asian, Latin American visitors get 30-day visa on arrival at IKA Tehran, Shiraz, Isfahan airports. Extension possible in major cities. Insurance (or buy at airport) required. US/UK/Canada: must travel with approved guide — contact agencies like SURFIRAN or Gapatour.

## Money

No foreign cards work. Bring crisp USD/EUR cash, exchange at Ferdowsi Sq Tehran or licensed sarrafi. **1 Toman = 10 Rials** — always confirm which unit! Example: 500,000 Toman ≈ $6-7 (2026 rates fluctuate, check daily). Snapp (Iranian Uber) is cash-friendly and super cheap.

## Getting around

- **Flights:** Mahan, Iran Air, Kish Air — Tehran-Shiraz \~ $25, book via 1stQuest or local agency.
- **VIP buses:** Excellent, 3-seat rows, snacks — Tehran-Isfahan \~6h.
- **Trains:** Scenic Tehran-Shiraz, Tehran-Yazd sleeper — book via Raja.ir (needs Iranian card, ask hotel).
- **Snapp/Tapsi:** Like Uber, essential in cities.

## Culture & etiquette

- **Taarof:** Ritual politeness — shopkeepers may refuse payment first; insist kindly 2-3 times.
- **Photos:** Ask before photographing people, never military/government buildings.
- **Alcohol:** Prohibited. Try dough (yogurt drink), sharbat sekanjebin and endless tea instead.
- **Greetings:** Men shouldn't shake hands with women unless she offers. A hand on heart works universally.

Iran is statistically very safe for tourists — violent crime against visitors is extremely rare. The biggest risk? Overeating from all the invitations!

## Visa 2026: Step-by-Step for Every Passport

**E-visa (most nationalities):** 1\. Apply at evisa.mfa.ir 30 days before (upload passport scan, photo, itinerary, hotel vouchers — book refundable on 1stQuest). 2\. Get grant notice in 5–10 days. 3\. Fly to IKA/Shiraz/Isfahan, pay visa fee at counter (€75 EU, varies), get 30-day stamp. 4\. Extend once for 30 more at police offices (Tehran Shahrara, Isfahan, Shiraz — 1 day, $15). **Visa on arrival:** Still available at IKA for \~60 nationalities (EU, Japan, China, Brazil, etc.) — but e-visa safer (VOA lines 2h, occasional denials). **US/UK/Canada:** Mandatory guided tour (no free travel). Agencies (SURFIRAN, Gapatour, Key2Persia) arrange MFA approval (30–45 days), guide 24/7, fixed itinerary. Cost \~$150/day all-in. **Israel stamp:** Entry denied if Israeli visa/stamp <6 months? Actually any Israeli evidence = denial. Ask Israel for separate paper. **Women solo:** No male-guardian requirement; same process. **Insurance:** Mandatory; buy at airport ($15) if yours excludes Iran. **Exit:** Keep hotel receipts? Rarely checked. Overstay fines $30/day + hassle — extend in time.

## Money Deep-Dive: Toman, Rial, Cards, Budget

**Units:** 1 Toman = 10 Rials (prices quoted in Toman, written sometimes in Rial with extra zero — always confirm: "Toman ya Rial?"). 2026 example: hostel dorm 1,500,000 Toman (\~$18), restaurant meal 400,000 Toman (\~$5), Snapp 5km 150,000 Toman (\~$1.80), VIP bus Tehran–Isfahan 500,000 Toman (\~$6). **Cash:** Bring €/$ crisp post-2013 $100s (old/blemished rejected). Exchange Ferdowsi Sq Tehran (dozens sarrafi, best rate 2–3% over hotel). Keep small notes for taxis. **Tourist cards:** MahCard/DaricPay at IKA (passport, 30 min, load €200, use in shops/POS/Snapp, refund remainder at exit minus fee). Worth it for 2+ weeks. **Budget:** Backpacker $25–35/day (hostel $12–18, food $8, transport $5), mid-range $60–90 (boutique $40–60, restaurants $15, domestic flight amortized), luxury $150+ (Abbasi, private driver $50/day). **Haggling:** Bazaars 20–30% off first price, smile; taxis without meter agree before; Snapp fixed — prefer it. **Tipping:** Not obligatory; 10% upscale if happy.

## Transport Masterclass: Flights, Buses, Trains, Snapp

**Domestic flights:** Mahan (best safety), Iran Air, Kish, Caspian. Tehran–Shiraz/Isfahan/Mashhad hourly, $20–35 one-way. Book via 1stQuest.com (foreign cards ok, 10% fee) or hostel (cash). Airports: IKA international + Mehrabad domestic in Tehran (1h taxi between, allow 4h connection). **VIP buses:** Iran's best-kept secret — 25-seat, reclining, blanket, snack, USB. Tehran terminals: Beyhaghi (west/north), Jonub (south). Buy at terminal (payeshgah) day before Nowruz; otherwise walk-in. **Trains:** Raja.ir scenic: Tehran–Shiraz (12h sleeper $12, Zagros sunrise), Tehran–Yazd (7h), Tehran–Mashhad (8h high-speed $15). Stations have prayer halls, buffets. **Snapp/Tapsi:** Essential — download with Iranian SIM, set English, pay cash or card. Moto option halves price. **Metro:** Tehran 7 lines 5am–11pm ($0.10), Mashhad/Isfahan/Shiraz/Tabriz smaller. Women-only cars (front/back) optional but calmer. **Driving:** International permit + rental (\~$30/day Saipa) possible but chaotic traffic, checkpoints, fuel cards — not recommended for short trips. **Hitchhiking:** Common and safe intercity (drivers love guests, often refuse money, invite to lunch) — Persian phrase "montazer-e otobusam" helps; women solo hitch in pairs recommended.

## Connectivity, Power, Health, Safety

**SIM + VPN:** Irancell/Hamrah-e Aval tourist SIM at IKA ($5, 5GB, passport). Top up via shops. 4G in cities, 3G highways. Install V2RayNG + subscription before arrival; WhatsApp/Instagram work, YouTube/Facebook/X need VPN, Google Play sometimes slow — use Cafe Bazaar mirror. **Power:** 220V Europlug (Type C/F), occasional outages in summer — power bank essential. **Water/food safety:** Tap drinkable in Tehran/Isfahan/Shiraz but chlorinated — bottled cheap ($0.20). Street food safe if cooked fresh; avoid unwashed salad in villages. **Altitude/sun:** Tehran 1,200m, Damavand base 3,000m — sunscreen, hat. **Medical:** Pharmacies abundant, pharmacists prescribe minor meds. Major hospitals in Tehran (Milad, Day) good; travel insurance with evacuation recommended. **Safety:** Violent crime vs tourists near-zero; biggest risks road accidents (wear seatbelt, avoid night buses in mountains) and dehydration. Police (110) helpful; tourist police in Isfahan/Shiraz speak English. **LGBTQ:** Same-sex relations illegal; discretion essential — no public affection (same advice for straight couples). **Protests/strikes:** Avoid gatherings, check news, register with embassy.

## Etiquette Cheat-Sheet + 20 Survival Phrases

Taarof: when offered tea/gift, refuse once politely ("zahmat nakeshid"), accept second. Never blow nose loudly, don't show soles, don't pat children's heads (sacred), give/receive with right hand. Ramadan: don't eat/drink/smoke publicly daytime (travelers exempt but discreet). Mosques: remove shoes, women chador provided free, whisper, no backs to mihrab for photos. **Phrases:** salam (hi), khodahafez (bye), merci/mamnoon (thanks), lotfan (please), bebakhshid (excuse me), bale/na (yes/no), chand? (how much?), geroon-e (expensive!), takhfif (discount), koja? (where?), dastshooyi (toilet), komak! (help), man gom shodam (I'm lost), vegetarianam (I'm vegetarian), chai lotfan (tea please), hesab lotfan (bill please), kheyli ghashang! (very beautiful!), dustet daram (I like you — for places/food, friendly). Learn Persian numbers 1–10 for prices — vendors light up.